畲族典型花边衫形制与工艺探析

Analysis on the Shape and Craft of Typical Lace Unlined Upper Garment of She Nationality

运用田野调研方法,结合文献资料,对五种典型畲族花边衫样式进行形制和工艺的数据分析。研究指出,畲族典型花边衫受到汉族传统袍服影响,运用折叠裁剪法,呈现“十字型”的平面结构特征,同时具有交领右衽短衣的形制特点,在工艺上体现重装饰轻缝纫的制作思想,并表现出显性的传承性、平面性、空间感,既是汉畲交融的文化反映,同时也是“观物比德、生态美学”影响下的造物思想和畲族民俗文化的集中表现。

Using the method of field research and combining with literature,this paper analyzes the shape and craft of five typical patterns of lace unlined upper garment of She minority.From the perspective of anthropology of art and clothing design of minority traditional lace shirt carding analysis,study,typical lace sweater,we discovered she had been affected by the Han nationality traditional robes,folding cutting method.It showed the flat structure features of the"cross",at the same time has a hand in collar Youren shape characteristics of the jacket,in the process of heavy adornment light sewing production ideas,and to show the dominant inheritance,plane and space.Han article reflects the blend of culture,and the concept of"To compare the moral character of man with the characteristics of nature,ecological aesthetics"under the influence of the creation thought and the concentrated expression of she folk culture.