明清时期戏曲文本插图中服饰的程式化特征--以男蟒服为例

A Discussion on Costume Stylized Features of Chinese Opera Printmaking in Ming and Qing Dynasties: Take Male “Mang Fu” for Example

明清时期是戏曲发展成熟的重要阶段,当时业界刊刻了大量的戏曲文本及插图,几代学者经过搜集、整理,已对戏曲文本插图做了一定的分类、编辑和研究。从目前的研究成果来看,对于插图是否能够反映舞台演出的真实面貌,学界还存在争议。文章从服饰角度论证戏曲文本插图与舞台演出的关系,并以男蟒服为例,阐释明代和清代戏曲文本插图中蟒服的特征及其与生活服饰的关系,探讨其演变和程式化的过程。

Chinese traditional opera matured in Ming and Qing dynasties when amounts of drama scripts and diagrams were printed and published. Researchers had some classifying,editing and researching jobs done where some disagreements on whether these diagrams reflect the real acting scene were kept arguing. In a view of costume analyzing,proofs of whether and how these costume in the diagrams were truly used on the stage could be served. Especial detailed discussion on male " Mang Fu" revealed its detail feature both in these scripts and diagrams and in daily life of the time,as well as its evolution and how were they stylized and fixed were discussed.