低扭矩赛络集聚色纺工艺对针织物性能的影响研究

Study on the Influence of Siro Condensed Color Spinning Process with Low Torque on the Properties of Knitted Fabrics

以低扭矩赛络集聚纱线加工技术为研究对象,系统研究纺纱方法、棉条精比、原料色比、纱线线密度、捻系数等成纱工艺配置对针织物性能的影响规律。研究表明:基于现有的赛络集聚纺纱技术,引入单龙带假捻技术,可实现低扭矩赛络集聚色纺纱开发,且能提高其色纺针织物的胀破、耐磨、抗起球性能,有效降低纬斜率,改善布面外观效果,但低扭矩赛络集聚技术在高棉条精比、高原料色比、线密度在14.8tex以下的针织物开发等方面存在耐磨性能差、纬斜率大、胀破强力低等问题。综合考虑,建议采用50%精比、H125色比、19.7tex、和305捻系数的纺纱工艺参数配置,用于开发高品质低扭矩赛络集聚色纺纱针织物。

Taking siro condensed yarn processing technology with low torque as the research object,the effect rules of process configuration like spinning method,combing percentage,fiber color contrast,yarn linear density,twist coefficient etc.on the properties of knitted fabrics were investigated systematically.The research results showed that based on the existing siro condensed spinning technology,the development of siro condensed colored spun yarns with low troque could be realized by introducing false twisting technology with single tangential belt,which could improve the bursting,abrasion and pilling resistance of the colored spun knitted fabrics,effectively reduce the weft oblique rate and improve the fabric surface effect.However,when the siro condensed spinning technology with low torque was adopted,the knitted fabrics made by the yarns with high combing percentage,high fiber color contrast and low linear density below 14.8 tex had some problems,such as poor abrasion resistance,high weft oblique rate or low burst strength.It was recommended to adopt the spinning process parameters of 50%combing percentage,H125 fiber color contrast,19.7 tex,and 305 twist coefficient to develop high quality knitted fabric made by siro condensed colored spun yarns with low torque.