时尚修辞的自由--修辞学视域中罗兰·巴特大众文化新论

Freedom of Fashion Rhetoric--A New Discussion of Roland Barthes’Mass Culture from the Perspective of Rhetoric

在罗兰·巴特后期的修辞学转向中,巴特以时尚修辞告别了自索绪尔以来语言结构的暴力,立足大众文化剖析,以文化修辞学破解符号学,以此来强调符号背后的意义。时尚修辞是巴特神话修辞和图像修辞的全面升华,在诸种修辞方式建构的时尚体系中,服饰符码在二元对立形成的矛盾空间中穿行,意指系统得以活跃,大众文化修辞的意义得以彰显。在时尚修辞形成的流动机制中,语言的张力成就了言语的自由,于修辞学的视域中,当代文化的赫拉克利特本质已昭然若揭。

In his later years,Roland Barthes made a turn in rhetoric,in which,with fashion rhetoric,he bid farewell to the violence of language structure since Saussure,and based on the dissection of mass culture,he decoded semiotics with cultural rhetoric to emphasize the meaning behind the signs.Fashion rhetoric is a full sublimation of Barthes’myth rhetoric and image rhetoric.In the fashion system constructed by various rhetorical modes,dress codes pass through the contradictory space formed by binary opposition,which makes the signifier system active and the meaning of mass cultural rhetoric prominent.In the flow mechanism formed by fashion rhetoric,the tension of language brings about the freedom of speech.From the perspective of rhetoric,the Heraclitus essence of contemporary culture is totally obvious.