旅游目的地饮食原真性再造:以阳朔西街啤酒鱼为例

REPRODUCTION OF AUTHENTICITY IN DESTINATION’S FOOD:A CASE STUDY OF BEER-FISH IN WEST STREET OF YANGSHUO

采用典型人物访谈和结构方程模型相结合的研究方法,试图解析旅游目的地饮食原真性再造及其机制问题。研究发现:第一,原真性再造过程并非改变地方饮食文化的原真内核,对原真性可塑部分的剥离、重构与外力助推是非传统食物短时间内成为地方饮食文化代表的关键。融合外来基因并能最终存活下来的原真性,更有可能成为地方饮食文化代表。第二,食物是旅游地特色餐厅的关注重点,服务原真性对游客感知影响最大,食物原真性对游客满意度影响最大。餐厅环境并无显著影响。第三,游客在原真性再造的循环过程中起到了承上启下的作用。原真性感知悖论要求地方和游客贯序调整各自内在文化建构偏差。游客意识最终决定旅游目的地饮食文化再造的存在价值。

This paper analyzes the reason why a non-traditional dish in destination becomes the representative of local food culture in a short time,what is the customer-perceived path of the food authenticity in tourist destinations and how can the food culture of tourist destinations adapt to the demand of tourism through authenticity reproduction.Focusing on the customer perception on authenticity reproduction in the destination restaurant,we use mixed methods of both structural equation model and in-depth interviews to interpret the theoretical concept of authenticity reproduction.Some conclusions are drawn as follows.First,the ability to strip and reconstruct the cultural authenticity becomes the key to transform the non-traditional dish into a representative of local food culture in a short period of time,the process of which must be assisted by external forces of highlighting the symbolic properties of the non-traditional dish.Second,the service authenticity has the greatest impact on the customer perception,while the food authenticity performs as the most significant factor associated with the customer satisfaction.Third,tourist perception plays a connecting role in the cycle of authenticity reproduction which is the realization of tourists’dietary empowerment in the negotiation and co-creation of cultural values.Rather than considering that the right of cultural reproduction is focused on the food culture production in tourist destination,it is better to say that the paradox of the authenticity perception of the local food culture caused by neophobic and neophylic requires both insiders and outsiders adjust the inherent cultural construction bias sequentially.