变化的游戏:时尚符号的逻辑策略及其反思

Game of Change:The Logic Strategy of Fashion Symbols and Reflection

时尚是一个具有表意能力的文化符号系统,全面解析时尚符号的运作逻辑是深入理解时尚文化并引导其健康发展的前提。时尚符号系统具有一定的特殊性,关于它的研究应该采用宏观的整体性视角,并深入其系统内部,探究众多符号之间的关系。时尚符号的基本逻辑是在变化中制造差异,在差异中创造新奇。但时尚符号的变化只是能指的变化,而非所指的变化。不断变化的能指始终指向表征新奇的"时髦"。不过,时尚符号很难采用整体更新的方式实现变化,而是运用自我解构式的局部替换实现形式层面的更新。同时,时尚符号还能借助托辞的阐释功能,从意义层面放大和强调形式层面的差异。虽然时尚符号的逻辑能在一定程度上弱化价值标准,但时尚的运作必须坚持基本的价值底线,尊重历史与文化。

Fashion is a cultural symbol system with ideographic capacity. A comprehensive analysis of the operation logic of fashion symbols is the precondition of understanding fashion culture and guiding its healthy development. Duo to the peculiarity of the fashion symbol system,research on it should adopt a macro and holistic perspective and go deep inside the system to explore the relationship between the symbols. The basic logic of fashion symbols is to make a difference in the transformation,thus creating novelty. Yet,the change of fashion symbols is not a change of the signified but only that of the signifier.The ever-changing signifier always points to the"vogue"that represents novelty. It is hard for fashion symbols to change in a holistic way;instead,they accomplish a formal renewal through self-deconstructing partial replacement. Meanwhile,by virtue of the interpretation function of pretense,fashion symbols can magnify and emphasize difference in form on the meaning level. Though the logic of fashion symbols can weaken value standards in a certain sense,the operation of fashion must abide by fundamental bottom lines of value and show respect to history and culture.