清代钿子的形成

The Development of Qing Dynasty Dianzi Headdress

清代服制规定严苛,满汉两族女子服饰无论在种类或形态上都有较大差异。钿子作为满洲贵族妇女特有首服类型之一,在造型与佩戴方式上均具有浓厚的满洲民族特色,区别于同时期汉族女性首饰。对清代钿子的分类及适用场合等问题此前已有一些文章专门论述过,本文在前人研究基础上,通过对满洲先祖女真妇女发型发饰、清代满洲妇女旗髻变化,以及统治政策对满洲女性服饰发展的影响等因素的分析,认为清代钿子的原型和形成基础,是满族先祖金代女真贵妇"辫发盘髻"之上所加的"裹巾";清代钿子伴随满族妇女旗髻功能变化产生,是为了配合旗髻特殊形状而专门制作,对旗髻进行装饰的贵族妇女特有首服;清代历任统治者对遵循满洲服饰传统的强调,是钿子始终能够保持其民族特色的主要原因。

A strict costume system was implemented in the Qing dynasty;Manchu and Han women’s costumes varied distinctly in types and forms.Dianzi is one of the exclusive headdresses of the Manchu women with typical ethnic characteristics in terms of the form and the wearing style.Previous researches have studied the classification and application occasion of Dianzi;on that basis,the article makes a systematic analysis on its development.Based on the hair style and headdress of Nuzhen women—the predecessor of Manchu,the change of Manchu women’s Qi hair bun and the influence of ruling policies on women’s costumes,this article points out that the foundation and prototype of dianzi should be the wrap cloth which was worn on the braided hair bun of the Nuzhen noblewomen in the Jin dynasty.Dianzi was development with change of the function of Qi hair bun to adapt to and for its special shape,which made a unique decoration for Qi hair bun.Qing rulers’emphasis on the abidance of Manchu costume tradition have ensured Dianzi its continuous ethnic style.