清代黄袍十二章纹的刺绣技艺及其创新设计

The embroidery skills and innovative design of the Twelve-Chapter pattern of emperor′s costumes in the Qing Dynasty

十二章纹是中国传统服饰内容之一,是体现中国统治者形象和权力的重要组成部分。中国古代帝王冕服中的十二章纹图案与自然中的元素紧密相连,体现了中华民族"天人合一"的文化观念和美学思想。文章以清代皇帝服饰中的十二章纹为例,从其应用概况、构图形式、装饰技法等方面进行了分析。通过解构、重组、图底互换等技法,对清代黄袍中十二章纹的应用及装饰技法进行现代设计,同时融入传统寓意、流行色彩、几何造型等设计元素,使十二章纹具现代感与趣味性,为中国传统元素在现代服饰中的运用提供借鉴。

Twelve-Chapter pattern is one of the contents of traditional Chinese costumes and also an important part of the image and power of Chinese rulers. Twelve-Chapter pattern in the ancient Chinese emperor′s clothing is closely associated with the elements in the nature, reflecting the cultural concept of the "human in nature" in Chinese nation and aesthetic thought. The article took Twelve-Chapter pattern in the emperor′s costumes of the Qing Dynasty as an example, and analyzed its application, composition form and decoration techniques. The modern design was carried out for the application and decoration techniques of Twelve-Chapter pattern in the emperor′s costumes of the Qing Dynasty through deconstruction, reorganization, and the exchange of picture and bottom. Meanwhile, some elements such as traditional meaning, fashionable colors and geometric shapes were integrated to make Twelve-Chapter pattern have a modern and interesting style. It brings the reference to the use of traditional Chinese elements in modern costumes.