族群记忆与认同:红瑶服饰工艺及其文化象征意味解读

Ethnic memory and identity:an interpretation of Hongyao clothingcraftsmanship and its cultural symbol meaning

针对红瑶服饰的制作工艺与文化内涵,文章从象征人类学的视角出发,采用文献研究法、田野考察法、图像学方法,考察了红瑶女装的装饰特色、制作工艺与图案意味。研究发现:红瑶服饰集织、染、绣于一体,制作工艺与众不同。研究表明:红瑶妇女之所以那么执着于本民族的服饰打扮,是因为穿瑶衣就是对瑶族文化的认同与坚守。她们用服饰打扮,以及服饰上的图案纹样如"漂洋过海纹""老虎爪印"等,共同构筑起一道族群记忆的城墙,承载的是她们对祖先、对族群的记忆与认同。

For the craftsmanship and cultural connotation of Hongyao clothing,the decorative features,the craftsmanship and pattern meaning of Hongyao clothing were analyzed from the perspective of symbolic anthropology with the method of field investigation,document research and iconology.The research shows that Hongyao clothing integrates weaving,dyeing and embroidery and that the craftsmanship is unique.The reason why Hongyao women are so attached to the dress and adornment of their own nationality is that wearing Yao dress is an identification with and adherence to the culture of Yao nationality.They dress up in costumes and the patterns on the clothing such as"cross-ocean pattern"and"tiger paw prints"build a wall of ethnic memory.It carries the memory and identity of their ancestors and their ethnic group.