徽州臭鳜鱼传统制作技艺调查研究

Investigation on the Traditional Production Techniques of Pickled Mandarin Fish in Huizhou

我国鱼类加工贮藏历史悠久,传统加工技艺各具特色。徽州臭鳜鱼以鲜鳜鱼、食盐为主要原料,采用杉木桶与鹅卵石为主要贮藏与辅助工具,经自然发酵成熟而成,成品鱼体呈铜绿色,鱼鳃、鱼眼鲜红,鱼肉呈淡粉色,质地紧实,散发出似臭非臭的独特风味。在现代化鱼类加工技术日臻成熟和完善的当今,传统加工产品以及传统加工技艺因其承载着人们丰富饮食智慧,作为人类饮食历史中的重要内容需要被认知、保护与传承。本文以徽菜中的典型代表——徽州臭鳜鱼为例,通过对其传统制作技艺的调查,以期更好的服务于徽菜传承与保护以及徽州饮食文化研究。

Fish processing and storage has a long history in China,and the traditional processing techniques have their own characteristics.With fresh mandarin fish and salt as the main raw materials,fir barrel and pebble as the main storage and auxiliary tools,the fish is naturally fermented and matured.The finished fish body is copper green,gills and eyes are bright red,the flesh is light pink,the texture is compact,and the unique flavor is like stink and non stink.With the development of modern fish processing technology,the traditional processing products and traditional processing techniques bears the rich food culture and wisdom.As an important part of human food history,they need to be recognized,protected and inherited.In this paper,the typical representative of Huizhou cuisine-Pickled mandarin fish,as an example,through the investigation of its traditional production techniques,in order to serve the heritage and protection of Huizhou cuisine and the study of Huizhou food culture better.