明代官服从“胸背”到“补子”的蒙俗汉制

On the Mongolian Custom and Han System of Ming Dynasty Official Uniform from“Xiongbei”to“Buzi”

文章以明代官服纹章从胸背到补子工艺的改变,探索明代官服的制度建构和蒙汉文化的民族融合。通过对元明官服制度、域外高丽朝鲜历史官服制度的文献整理,结合明朝官袍标本的考古成果,采用标本与文献二重证据和比较研究方法,发现明代从“胸背”到“补子”工艺的改变对官服制度产生深远而持久的影响,重现明代官服“礼制”思想在传统服饰上的传承和从胸背到补子的物化时代特征。

This paper explores the system construction and cultural spiritual connotation of the Ming Dynasty's official uniform,based on the evolution mechanism of the Ming Dynasty's official uniform from the"xiongbei"to the"buzi".Based on the literature review of the official uniform system of Ming Dynasty and the historical official uniform system of Korea,combined with the archaeological results of the official robe specimens of the Ming Dynasty,using the double evidence and comparative research methods of specimens and documents,it is found that the change of the craft from"xiongbei"to"buzi"in the Ming Dynasty has a profound and lasting impact on the official uniform system,and reappears the inheritance of the thought of"etiquette system"in the traditional costume of the Ming Dynasty and the characteristics of materialized age from"xiongbei"to"buzi".