色以显礼:两周礼用丝织品的色彩规制探讨

Etiquette Performed by Dress Color:Regulations on Color of Silk Fabrics Used in the Rituality of Zhou Dynasty

通过文献研究法、历史研究法,并借助文献和考古资料,对两周时期礼仪中丝织品的色彩使用规制进行了一定的探讨。分析表明,两周礼用丝织品的色彩需要彰显、表达礼意,因而在使用上就要遵循法天地则阴阳、彰显使用者身份地位的规制,要遵循阳尊阴卑、正色高于间色这样的规制。为了保证这套规制的有效实施,周王朝设置了专门的职官负责丝织品色彩的管理,并制定了统一规范的染色工艺流程,进行严格的质量监督管理。丝织品色彩规制的运用维系了礼的正常运转,促进了丝织染色技术的发展,并为后世官服制度的发展奠定了基础。

Regulations on color of silk fabrics used in the rituality of Zhou Dynasty was discussed in this paper based on documentary records and archaeological excavation by means of literature search and historical approach.It was found that the color of ritual silk fabrics in Zhou Dynasty needs to exhibit and express ritual meaning,which means to imitate heaven and earth,Yin and Yang,to exhibit the user's social status,and meanwhile to express the meaning that Yang is superior to Yin,and dominant color is better than intermediate color.In order to ensure the effective implementation of this set of regulations,special officials were appointed in charge of the management of silk color,uniformed and standard dyeing process was formulated,and strict quality supervision and management were carried out in Zhou Dynasty.Regu-lations on color of silk fabrics ensures the effective exertion of rituality and etiquette,promotes the development of dyeing technology,and lays a foundation for the future development of official dress regulations.