台湾排湾人女性服装之传统与创新的对比及思考——以屏东县三地门地区为例

The Comparison and Thinking of the Traditional and Innovative Paiwan Female Costumes in Taiwan:Taking the Region of Sandimen in Pingtung Country as an Example

台湾排湾人女性传统服装具有独特的文化背景和装饰风格特征,在现今社会的活化传承和创新发展态势良好,于少数民族服装的当代发展研究领域,值得关注与借鉴。本文在文献及相关博物馆展藏品研究的基础上,以屏东县三地门地区为主要田野工作地点,运用直接观察、搜集采样和简要访谈的调查方法,从款式造型、色彩图案、材料、工艺四个方面对比分析排湾女性服装传统与创新的异同之处,并就此地区民族服装蓬勃发展的现状进行思考,依其文化脉络梳理出地理属性优越、社会阶级制度变更、当代民族意识崛起、地域艺术氛围浓郁、服饰文化产业化等五个方面的原因。

Traditional Paiwan female costumes,which have unique cultural background and decorative style,are actively inherited and innovatively developed well in current society,which deserves attention and reference in the research field of contemporary development of minority costumes.Based on the study of literature and relative museum collections,taking the region of Sandimen in Pingtung country as main field work place,this paper compares and analyzes the similarities and differences between the traditional Paiwan female costumes and the innovative ones from four aspects—style,color and pattern,material,and craft,using the investigation methods of direct observation,sampling and brief interview.Aiming at the flourish situation of minority costumes in this area,this paper also teases out such reasons as advantageous geographic property,change of social caste system,rising of ethnic consciousness,rich local artistic atmosphere,and industrialization of costume culture,according to its cultural context.