正宗与时变:基于安溪铁观音的产业治理与生产实践研究

Authenticity and the Logic of Change:A Study of IndustryGovernance and Production Practice based on the Case ofAnxi Tieguanyin

在农业现代化转型的背景下,对于地方的产业治理,学者普遍关注政府的行为动机及其后果,未能充分揭示政府产业政策内容的逻辑与农民具体生产实践之间的张力。基于对安溪铁观音的个案考察,本文指出,地方政府以“正宗性”作为茶业发展的抓手,实际上是将传统的生产方式改造成更加单一化、标准化、规模化的现代化生产。这种生产逻辑与茶农基于生产技艺、农时安排以及社会关系状况的灵活性产销存在根本的张力。通过对具体的茶业政策和农民生产实践的考察,本文刻画了这种张力在不同层面的表现及其不同后果,并着重指出,相比于地方政府诉诸正宗性的产业治理逻辑,农户因时、因地、因人而变的产销逻辑更能适应复杂多变的市场环境。

Against the background of agricultural modernization,research on local governance has focused predominantly on the motivation of governmental behavior and its consequences but has failed to sufficiently reveal the tension between the logic of governmental industry policies and the concrete production practice of farmers.Similarly,the anthropological study on the authenticity of things has emphasized the impact of the cultural constructs of dominant consumer groups on producers but has overlooked the production rationality on the part of local producers. Taking the dualperspective of industry governance and authenticity,this paper points out theconspiratorial relationship between the local governmental industrial policy and thecultural construction of consumer market,and emphasizes the resilience and vitalityof the tea farmers with production flexibility in dealing with this double pressure fromgovernments and consumers. More specifically,the promotion of the tea industryunder the name of “authenticity” by local governments is in fact to essentiallytransform the traditional ways of production into a large -scale standardizedproduction,so as to guide and cater to the cultural imagination of the consumermarket. However,this insistence on uniformity and non-historical authenticity standsin stark contrast to the flexibility of the tea farmers who adapts production and salesto suit production techniques,growing seasons,and social relations. In contrast to thegovernment’s strategy of authenticity to keep with a well-defined“tradition”,the teafarmers have their own logic of production and sales,adjusting to time,soil andmarket. Though the government’s strategy of authenticity had some success in thepast,but in the long run,farmers’ flexible method is more suitable for the complex,changeable and multi-level market.