中国唐宋皇后礼冠差异性与传承性研究

A study on the difference and inheritance of empress’ceremonial crowns in Tang and Song dynasties

皇后礼冠是中国古代女性最高级别的冠式,唐宋两代是皇后礼冠形制发展的重要时期。文章以萧后冠与宋钦宗皇后冠为研究对象,借助史料、图像资料及出土实物,厘清两者之间在形状、款式、装饰及审美倾向等方面的差异性。就传承性而言,立足于唐宋两代服制法典等相关文献,从史料记载中探寻唐宋皇后礼冠之间的传承脉络。尽管唐宋皇后冠在结构及装饰细节上差异显著,但宋皇后冠制是传承唐制基础之上的革新。两冠之间最根本的区别在于宋皇后冠上增加了龙凤装饰,由此可见龙凤饰于皇后冠应是始于宋盛于明,宋代开启了凤冠流行之先河。

The empress’ceremonial crown in ancient China was the top-grade female crown in the history of Chinese costume development.Tang and Song dynasties were the crucial development periods of empress’ceremonial crown.This paper focuses on the empress’ceremonial crown of Empress Shaw and Emperor Qinzong of Song.Based on the historical records,image data and unearthed objects,the differences of the empress’ceremonial crowns in shape,structure,style,decoration and aesthetic tendency were explored.With regard to inheritance,the inheritance correlation between empress’s crowns in Tang and Song dynasties was investigated according to relevant documents about clothing system and code in Tang and Song dynasties.In spite of significant differences in the structure and decoration details,the Song empress’s crown innovated on the basis of empress’s crown of Tang dynasty.The fundamental difference is that dragon and phoenix decoration was added on the empress’s crown of Song dynasty.Thus,phoenix and dragon applied on the express’s crown started from Song dynasty and prevailed in Ming dynasty.Song dynasty ushered in the popularity of empress’s crown.