绢丝/羊绒混纺全成形针织服装的设计和开发

Design and development of fully-formed garmentbased on silk/cashmere blend yarn

针对目前绢丝/羊绒混纺织物多采用裁剪、缝合的方式成形,存在接缝牢度、接缝舒适性差及原料浪费等问题,文章借助岛精四针床全成形电脑横机,以绢丝/羊绒混纺的夏季裙装为例,研究其全成形针织物局部工艺设计方法,并探讨在全成形织造及后整中的特殊性和解决方案。结果表明:绢丝/羊绒混纺全成形针织物,外观上可经过组织设计避免线圈歪斜;尺寸上通过横纵向变形系数控制丝绸织物的尺寸稳定性;工艺上通过分片收放针可实现较大的裙摆和袖口;编织时通过调整参数能保证编织的顺利进行;后整时加入平滑剂,可使实物具有柔软滑糯的手感。

At present,silk/cashmere blended fabrics are mostly formed by cutting and sewing.There are problems such as poor seam firmness,poor seam comfort,and waste of raw materials,etc.With the help of four-needle computerized flat knitting machine of Shimaseiki,silk/cashmere blended summer dress was taken for example to study the local process design methods of the fully-formed garment and discuss the particularity and solutions in fully-formed weaving and post-finishing.The results show that the silk/cashmere blended fully-formed knitted fabric can be designed to avoid the skew of the loop;the size stability of the silk fabric is controlled by the horizontal and vertical deformation coefficient;and the larger skirt hem and cuff can be achieved by stitching technology in the process;the knitting parameters can be set to ensure smooth knitting;the smoothing agent in post-finishing can make the fabric softer and more smooth.