近代以来川菜流派划分述评

A Review of Classification of Sichuan Cuisine in the Modern Times

近代以来川菜的风味流派,主要以借用起源于川江船运船帮之间形成的“帮口”的形式进行划分,但划分标准却一直以来在川菜理论界存在多种说法,主要有上河帮、下河帮、大河帮、小河帮等风味流派,迄今没有形成统一的共识和定论。各种划分之间存在较大的差异,不利于现代川菜的发展,尝试提出现代川菜由渝菜、泸菜、蓉菜、攀菜等新的区域菜系共同组成,共同构建现代川菜理论体系,共同代表现代川菜发展最高艺术成就。

The flavor genre of Sichuan cuisine has been divided in the form of“clique”(bangkou in Chinese)which originated from the clique of the shipping oarsmen on the Yangtze River within Sichuan Province in the modern times.However,the classification criteria have always been various in the Sichuan Cuisine theory,which mainly include several flavor genres such as the Shanghe Clique,the Xiahe Clique,the Dahe Clique,the Xiaohe Clique etc.The theory has not been consensual and conclusional until now.There are big differences among the various divisions,which are not conducive to the development of modern Sichuan cuisine.This paper attempts to propose that modern Sichuan cuisine is composed of new regional cuisines such as Chongqing cuisine,Luzhou cuisine,Chengdu cuisine,and Panzhihua cuisine.They jointly build a modern Sichuan cuisine theory system which may represent the highest artistic achievements in the development of modern Sichuan cuisine.