橡斗染色工艺复原研究

Restoration research of acorn shell dyeing process

为了复原传统染材橡斗的染色工艺及相关色彩,采用水煎法萃取橡斗染液,分析橡斗染液染色的影响因素,确定了优化染色工艺以及颜色特征值的显色范围。结果显示,浴比、媒染方法、媒染剂用量、染色温度、pH、染色次数均对染色棉织物的颜色特征值有一定的影响;显色情况为直接染色呈较浅的灰黄色调,皂矾媒染呈黑灰色调,显色效果从大小为后媒染、预媒染、同浴媒染。橡斗后媒染优化工艺为:浴比1∶40、染液质量分数100%、染色温度80℃、媒染剂用量5 g/L、pH 6、染色5次。复原了鼠毛色、栗壳色和沙石色,确定了色彩的大致范围。耐皂洗、耐摩擦及耐日晒色牢度均在3级以上,具有一定的开发和应用价值。

In order to restore the dyeing process and related colors of traditional dye material acorn shell,water decoction method was used to extract the dye solution of acorn shell,the influencing factors of the dyeing process of the acorn shell were analyzed,and the optimal dyeing process and the chromogenic range of color characteristic value were determined.The results showed that bath ratio,mordant dyeing method,mordant dosage,dyeing temperature,pH and dyeing times all had some influence on the color characteristic value of dyed cotton fabric.The chromogenic condition was as follows:the direct dyeing had a light grayish yellow color,and the melanterite mordant dyeing had a black gray color.The chromogenic effect from large to small was:post mordant dyeing,pre-mordant dyeing and co-mordant dyeing.The optimal mordant dyeing process was as follows:bath ratio 1∶40,dye solution mass fraction 100%,dyeing temperature 80℃,mordant dosage 5 g/L,pH 6 and dyeing 5 times.The color of rat fur,chestnut shell and sandstone were restored,and the general color range was determined.The fastness of soaping,rubbing and sunshine were all above grade 3,so the process had certain developing and application value.