中国古代织锦重组织结构的特征及其演变规律

Characteristics and evolution of backed weave structure of brocade in ancient China

为了构建中国古代织锦的重组织结构体系,并为现代织锦的品种创新提供借鉴,以历史文献为依据,梳理了中国古代重组织结构织锦的历史沿革,根据重组织结构的接结特点将其品种划分为暗夹型、无结型、特结型和地结型四大类,并分析了这四大类织锦的结构特征、显花特征及其内在联系。研究发现:中国古代重组织结构织锦的结构演变大致呈现出地组织由无到有、接结特点由无接到特接再到地接、显花特点由经显花到纬显花再到经纬同时显花、浮长由短到长的发展规律;其演变本质是不断优化结构,以改善织锦的性能和外观,使得重组织结构织锦在各个历史时期都是丝绸产品中的代表品种。

In order to build the weave structure system of the ancient China backed weave structure brocade and provide a reference for the innovation of modern brocade,the historical evolution of the backed weave structure brocade used in ancient China was studied according to historical documents.On this basis,the brocade was divided into four major types,i.e.dark-clip-type,no-knot-type,special-knot-type and ground-knot-type according to the connection characteristics of brocade weave structure.Meanwhile,the characteristics of the structure,pattern display and internal relationships of these four types of brocade were analyzed.It is found that the structural evolution generally shows that the ground weave is from non-existence to existence,the characteristics of connection is from no-yarn to dedicated yarn and then to ground-yarn,the way of pattern display is from warp to weft and then to warp and weft,and the float length is from short to long.The essence of the evolution has been to improve the performance and appearance of the backed weave structure brocade through optimizing the structure constantly,towards creating representative silk varieties in various historical periods.