跨地方的“地道”:民族主题餐厅的原真性重构与感知研究

Cross-regional“authenticity”:A study of authenticity reconstruction and perception of ethnic theme restaurants

在全球流动的背景下,对于“地道”饮食的追捧成为普遍关注的话题。基于此,以都市中的藏餐厅为例,运用质性研究的方法探析跨地方语境下“地道”重构以及消费者的感知与体验。研究发现:①跨地方民族餐厅的“地道”是经营者根据消费者需求进行操控和调适的产物,具有鲜明的可塑性和能动性;②消费者对于“地道”藏餐的感知包含感官、情感与文化三个维度,且作为局内外的消费者有着完全不同的感知与体验;③跨地方民族餐厅的“地道”实际上是内外部主体多元建构与持续协商的产物,“地道”也在跨界流动的生产与消费实践中被赋予了多重的意味。

In the context of global mobility,the pursuit of“authentic”diets has become a topic of general concern.Hereupon,taking the Tibetan restaurant in the city as an example,the qualitative research method is used to analyze the“authenticity”reconstruction in the cross-regional context and consumers’perception and experience.It is found that:(1)The“authenticity”of cross-region ethnic restaurants is the product of managers’manipulation and adjustment relying on consumer needs,with distinctive plasticity and initiative.(2)Consumers’perception of“authentic”Tibetan food includes three dimensions:sensory,emotional,and cultural;and consumers inside and outside have completely different perceptions and experiences.(3)The“authenticity”of cross-national ethnic restaurants is actually the product of the multiple construction of internal and external subjects and continuous negotiation.The“authenticity”is also given multiple meanings in the production and consumption practices of cross-border flows.