“卧沙细肋”考——从苏轼看宋代羊肉生产与消费

A Textual Research on“Woshaxile”——Viewing Song Dynasty Mutton Production and Consumption from Su Shi

本文对苏轼诗中提到的“卧沙细肋”一词进行了考证,并结合宋代动物生产与消费的史实进行了讨论,指出“卧沙细肋”一词并非是前人注释所认定的产自福建的通印子鱼,而是产自陕西的同州羊,又名苦泉羊。苏轼笔下与“卧沙细肋”有关的文字,实际上也是宋代动物生产、流通与消费的一个缩影。宋代的羊肉生产与消费都已达到很高的水平。从苏轼的经历来看,羊肉是宋代贵族消费的最主要的肉类,西北是肉羊的主产地,长江中游北岸的黄州地区也有丰富的羊肉出产,而岭南惠州等地则极度匮乏。苏轼不仅是羊肉的消费者,更是羊肉的生产者,他在这两个领域里都有自己独到的建树。

This article examines the term“woshaxile,lying sandy thin rib”mentioned in Su Shi’s poems,and discusses the historical facts of animal production and consumption in the Song Dynasty.It is pointed out that the term“lying sand fine ribs”is not a Tongyinziyu fish produced in Fujian,as identified in previous notes,but a Tongzhou sheep produced in Shaanxi,also known as Kuquan sheep.The texts related to“woshaxile”written by Su Shi are actually a reflection of animal production,distribution and consumption in the Song Dynasty.The production and consumption of lamb in the Song Dynasty have reached a very high level.From Su Shi’s experience,lamb was the most important meat consumed by the aristocracy in the Song Dynasty,with the northwest being the main source of meat and the Huangzhou region on the north bank of the middle reaches of the Yangtze River also producing abundant lamb,while places such as Huizhou in the southern part of the Lingnan region were extremely scarce.Su Shi is not only a consumer of lamb but also a producer of lamb.He has his own unique achievements in these two fields.