羊毛精纺平纹轻薄织物撕破强力的影响因素

Analysis and research on tear strength index of wool worsted plain weave fabric

为解决羊毛精纺平纹轻薄织物撕破强力较小的问题,通过14组对比实验方案,重点分析与研究了织物紧度、纱线断裂强力、纱线断裂伸长率、纱线捻系数和后整理工艺对撕破强力指标的影响。结果表明:织物受力三角区中的纱线断裂强力、横纵纱线间的摩擦阻力和受力纱线的伸缩性能是影响织物撕破强力的主要因素;羊毛精纺平纹轻薄织物的经向紧度约为46%、纬向紧度约为40%,其纱线断裂强力不低于170 cN且断裂伸长率不低于18%,或断裂强力不低于160 cN且断裂伸长率不低于40%,可保证织物撕破强力指标满足GB/T 3917.2—2009的要求。

In order to solve the problem of low tear strength of wool worsted plain weave fabrics,the effects of fabric tightness,yarn breaking strength,yarn breaking elongation,yarn twist coefficient and finishing process on the tear strength index were analyzed and studied through 14 groups of comparative experiments.The results show that the breaking strength of the yarn in the stress triangle,the frictional resistance between the transverse and longitudinal yarns,and the stretchability of the stressed yarn are the fundamental factors that affect the tear strength of the fabric.The warp and weft tightness of wool worsted plain weave fabric are about 46%and 40%respectively,and the yarn breaking strength is not less than 170 cN and the breaking elongation is not less than 18%or the breaking strength is not less than 160 cN and the breaking elongation is not less than 40%,which can ensure that the tearing strength index of the fabric can meet the requirements of GB/T 3917.2—2009.