中食西渐:以一道美国化的中国菜为例的考察

Chinese Food Spreading to the West:A Study of Americanized Chinese Cuisine

“炒杂碎”是一道源于中国而逐渐美国化了的中国菜,也是美国人心目中最为正宗的中国菜。“炒杂碎”最初是为了满足华工以及西海岸众多族裔劳工一日三餐需求而制作的家常大锅菜,在19世纪后期伴随着排华运动的出现,以“炒杂碎”为特色的杂碎馆却逐渐成为种族歧视下华人移民安身立命的重要手段。为了招徕顾客,“炒杂碎”摒弃旧有做法,并逐步形成了与传统中国菜有着巨大不同、却能够适应美国顾客口味和需求的美式中餐。这也反映出在“中食西渐”的历史进程中,中国菜在口味调制、食材选择上固然可以因为食客的变化而做出巨大的改变,然而其中所蕴藏的本真意韵却很难改变,并且依旧能够打上“中餐”的标签。

Chop Suey is the cuisine that originates from China and is gradually Americanized.It is also the most authentic Chinese food in American people's mind.Chop Suey was originally produced in order to meet the needs of Chinese and many other ethnic workers on the West Coast for daily three meals.In the late 19th century,with the emergence of the Chinese expulsion movement,Chinese restaurant that featured Chop Suey gradually became an important means of living for Chinese immigrants under discrimination.In order to attract customers,Chop Suey has abandoned the old practice,and gradually formed an American Chinese food that is greatly different from traditional Chinese food,but can adapt to the tastes and needs of American customers.This also reflects that in the historical process of“Chinese food spreading to the West”,Chinese cuisine can make great changes in tastes and ingredient selection due to changes of diners,but the true meaning contained in it is difficult to change,and it can still be labeled“Chinese food”.