机械时代传统工艺的消解与再生——以苏州四经绞罗织造技艺为例

Disappearance and Regeneration of Traditional Handicraft in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction——Illustrated by the Example of Four—Ends—Twisted Fabric Weaving Technology from Suzhou

随着生产技术的发展,机械复制品对传统手工制品的生存发展造成冲击,以手工为源泉的艺术品"光韵"逐渐消解。本文关注的重点在于传统工艺如何面对机械复制技术的冲击,维系艺术"光韵"的存在,并以苏州传统织物——四经绞罗为案例展开讨论,通过对历史变迁中四经绞罗的大致面貌、丝织技艺的演进,阐释从古代、近代再到当代,四经绞罗如何发展再至失落,丝织行业如何面对不同时代的需求,并从个人的案例出发,窥探四经绞罗织造技艺乃至整个传统工艺的传承在社会环境变迁中的困境与出路,为传统工艺在当代的复兴与发展提供值得借鉴的思路。

With the development of technology, technical reproduction have impacted on the survival man-made artifacts, and the "aura" of artworks based on handmade has gradually disappeared. The focus of this paper is how the traditional technology can face the impact of mechanical reproduction technology and maintain the existence of "aura". The paper takes the traditional fabric of Suzhou called Four-Ends-Twisted fabrics as a case study, explains how the traditional technology has developed from ancient times to modern times, and how the silk weaving industry has faced the needs of different times. The paper also try to discuss the difficulties and ways of inheriting the weaving technology and even the whole traditional technology in the social environment.