解码民俗服装:行列舞者的着装规则(上)

Deciphering Folk Costume:Dress Codes Among Contra Dancers (Part Ⅰ)

民俗服装是指少数种族的、宗派的和职业化的小范围服装传统,于众多学者而言,这是一个过时的术语。民俗学者又往往对某些似乎仅反映日常穿着的服装选择视若无睹。在服装行为上有两种立场:一是男女舞者都穿T恤,二是男舞者逐渐开始穿短裙。这两种立场有助于打开参与者所使用的复杂的交流资源,并暗示在此相对未开发的领域进行民俗研究,可能会收获颇丰。

For many scholars,“folk costume”is an outmoded term that refers to a narrow range of ethnic,sectarian,and occupational clothing traditions.At the same time,folklorists tend to overlook some kinds of clothing choices which seem merely to reflect“everyday dress.”Two instances of clothing behavior in particular,namely,the use of tee-shirts by dancers of both sexes and the growing use of skirts by male dancers,serve to“unpack”the complex communicative resources available to participants and suggest that folkloric research in this relatively unexplored area may produce rich results.