汉唐戏剧中参军服色与《舆服志》的关系

Relationship Between the Color of Canjun Costume in the Drama of Han and Tang Dynasties and Book of Carriages and Dressings

传统戏剧服饰是中国传统服饰中的一个分支,在其产生和程式化的过程中受中国历代传统服饰的影响,并受制于历代《舆服志》的相关典章制度。通过对汉唐戏剧中参军服饰色彩的研究,从对应关系和变化规律两个角度探讨其与《舆服志》的相关性。研究表明,汉唐戏剧中参军服色和同一时期《舆服志》的相关记载有较强的对应关系,并在发展变化过程中呈现同步性和部分滞后性特征,且在这一时期出现了戏剧服饰色彩的程式化端倪。

Traditional drama costume is a branch of Chinese traditional clothing.In the process of emergence and development,it is strongly influenced by Chinese traditional clothing.The drama costume is also confined by the policies of the Book Carriages of Dressings as well.This work dealt with the color of canjun costume in dram a concerning Han and Tang Dynasties.Studies were based on two perspectives,namely,the corresponding relationship and changing rule.Research showed that there was a strong correspondence between the color of canjun costume and the Book of Carriages and Dressings.And they showed synchronism and partial hysteresis in the process of development and change.Besides,it appearedsome stylized clues of colors in this period.