浅析古代传统染色技艺“栀子染”的发展演变

Development of the ancient traditional dyeing technique “gardenia dyeing”

植物染色彩柔和、环保无污染,但对于植物染的理论研究大多局限于植物染的历史渊源、工艺技巧、成分分析等,缺乏针对某一种植物传统染色技艺、历史嬗变的研究。文章从五行五色说、古代哲学思想、宗教信仰以及传统服装4个方面,阐述了栀子染所代表的黄色在中国传统文化中的价值体现。通过梳理古代有关栀子染色的文献,并依据现代考古发掘,具体探讨了古代“栀子染”在传统染色中的地位及其发展演变。

Plant dyeing is soft in color and environmentally.However,the theoretical research on plant dyeing is mostly limited to the historical origin,technology and component analysis of plant dyeing,etc,which lacks the traditional dyeing techniques and historical evolution of a certain plant.Said articles from the five elements,the ancient philosophy,religion and traditional clothing four aspects elaborated the gardenia yellow dye represents the value in the Chinese traditional culture.By integrating and combing the ancient literature about gardenia dyeing,and based on modern archaeological excavation,it has explored the role of the gardenias in the traditional staining and the evolution of its development.