基于体型差异的女衬衫定制纸样调整技术

Adjustment Technology of Customized Pattern for Blouse Based on Body Size Difference

在确定款式的标准样板基础上,为了实现个人服装定制中纸样的快速调整目的,参考国内外标准,借鉴国内外企业、专家现有的人体尺寸测量方案,结合特体纸样修正所需人体测量项目,在对人体进行观察、分析的基础上,拟定20个人体特征测量项目,制定出一套与人体特征测量项目相应的纸样调整规则。对56名18~25岁、身高157.5~167.5 cm的女性进行人体测量实验,从中选取1名标准体型的人体作为参考样本,11名覆盖不同体型特征的人体作为实验样本,以参考样本的人体测量项目数据为依据,绘制合体女式衬衫衣身纸样,对比实验样本与参考样本人体测量项目数据差异,分别进行纸样调整,样衣制作与试穿,对样衣试穿效果进行分析。结果表明:拟定的人体测量项目适用于女衬衫定制,基于人体特征测量项目数据差异进行定制服装纸样调整的方案可行,操作性较好。

In order to achieve rapid adjustment of the pattern in the clothing customization on the basis of the standard pattern of a certain style,20 human body characteristics measurement items and a set of pattern adjustment rules corresponding to the human body characteristics measurement items were developed based on observation and analysis of the human body shape and by referring to domestic and international anthropometric standards and existing human body size measurement solutions from companies and experts.Then this project conducted an anthropometric experiment on 56 females of 18-25 years old and 157.5-167.5 cm,from which one person of standard body size was selected as a reference sample and 11 people covering different body characteristics were used as experimental samples.The basic pattern of the fitted blouse was drew based on the anthropometric data of the reference sample.At last,pattern adjustments were made according to the body characteristics measurement items data differences between experimental samples and the reference sample,and sample clothings were made for them to try on.The experimental results show that the proposed anthropometrics items are suitable for women’s customized blouse,and the pattern adjustment based on the difference of the measurement items data is not only feasible but also has good operability.