唐宋《衣服令》对比研究——以皇帝冠服为例

A comparative study of Yi Fu Ling in Tang and Song dynasties:case study of emperors’costumes

《衣服令》是古代一种规范冠服制度的重要法律,是反映某一历史时期服饰制度最真实的记载。目前,不论是法学界还是服装史学界,对《衣服令》的研究并不多,唐、宋《衣服令》的联系还不甚明晰。文章采用文献研究法和对比研究法,通过对唐、宋《衣服令》的比较,分析了唐、宋两代服饰制度的相承性和差异性,认为历史的演变导致不同朝代政治形势的不同,以及当朝不同政治势力对“礼”的解释权的争夺是二者存在异同的两大原因。明确唐、宋六百多年间服饰制度的演变情况将有助于理解中国古代服饰制度的内在关联,进而把握中国古代服饰的发展脉络。

The Yi Fu Ling was an important law that regulated the costume system in ancient times.And,it recorded the costume system in a certain historical period in the most authentic way.At present,there is not much research on"Yi Fu Ling"in both the legal circle and the circle of costume history,and the relationship between"Yi Fu Ling"in the Tang and Song dynasties is not clear.This paper adopts the methods of literature research and comparative study.Through comparing"Yi Fu Ling"in Tang dynasty and Song dynasty,this paper analyzes the inheritance and differences between the costume systems of Tang and Song dynasties,and holds that different political situations of different dynasties caused by the historical development and the contest for the right to interpret"rites"among different political forces are the two main reasons for their similarities and differences.A clear understanding of the evolution of costume system in Tang and Song dynasties for over six hundred years will help us understand the inner relationship of costume system and grasp the development of costume system in ancient China.