中国食物主权的无声实践——基于对恩施州猪草猪的田野研究

Weed-eating Pigs and the Quiet Food Sovereignty in China: A Case Study of Enshi

食物主权是一个由小农群体发起的旨在摆脱资本和跨国公司的控制和垄断的全球性社会运动。在食学家的印象中,中国、俄罗斯、以及中亚诸国一直是食物主权运动的空白地带,但最近有研究者发现俄罗斯民间存在一种"无声食物主权",并归纳出了这种食物主权所具有的基本特征。本研究在田野调查基础上、通过对恩施州的猪草猪与"无声食物主权"的比较研究,展示了在中国的农村也存在这种有行动无话语的食物主权实践。与俄罗斯模式不一样的是,恩施州的猪草猪是一种"空巢食物主权",即以空巢村民为行动主体、以当地的文化关键食物为核心推动力、以当地植物为饲料资源而形成的一个微型自续系统。

As a global peasant movement, Food Sovereignty has been aimed to provide an alternative food system for the current dominant food regime controlled by capitalism and transnational companies. In people’s discourses about food sovereignty, countries like Russia and China are just ignored, since these countries have simply had no such a movement. However, researchers have found that the small farmers in Russia have engaged in small-scale food production, which is now called "Quiet Food Sovereignty". Compared to the features of the Quiet Food Sovereignty, this study shows that the raising of weed-eating pigs by small famers in Enshi, Hubei, shares great similarities with the Quite Food Sovereignty. The only difference is that in Enshi the practitioners of ecological farming are mainly rural empty-nesters, whose adult children are migrating to cities to make a living. The Empty-nester Food Sovereignty in Enshi is self-sustained by the local food culture and local plant resources.