基于梭织服装褶裥的针织服装褶裥工艺设计

Plaits Design of Knitted Garment Based on Woven Garment Plaits

以梭织服装褶裥为切入点,在对其定义、造型原理及分类研究的基础上,将其造型原理与针织组织、针织工艺相结合,探讨设计制作针织服装褶裥的方法。详细介绍运用针织组织花型设计针织褶裥,包括纬平针组织、罗纹组织、四平组织、提花组织,以及运用成形针织工艺设计针织褶裥,包括横织竖用工艺、局部编织工艺、叠针编织工艺。指出采用针织组织与工艺设计制作服装褶裥时,在设计方法与针织组织、工艺上具有多样性,在褶裥造型与细节设计上具有独特性。

On the basis of analyzing and studying the definition,modeling principle and classification of woven garments plaits,the methods of designing and plaits making of knitted garments are discussed by combining the woven garments plaits"modeling principle with knitting stitch and knitting technology.It introduces in detail the design of knitting plaits by using knitting patterns of weft plain stitch,rib,full gauge 1+1 rib and jacquard stitch,and the design of knitting plaits by fully fashioned technology,including horizontal knitting used for vertical,partial knitting process,widening and narrowing knitting process,and overlapping knitting process.It points out that there is diversity in design methods and technologies when using knitting technology to design and manufacture garment plaits,and the plaits*modeling and detailed design are unique.