勃艮第宫廷的服装政治学——以彩绘手稿《让·沃奎林向菲利普三世献书》为例

Clothing Politic of Burgundian Court:Taking Jean Wauquelin Presenting His‘Chroniques de Hainaut’to Philip the Good as an Example

以《让·沃奎林向菲利普三世献书》为例,分析15世纪勃艮第公爵菲利普三世统治时期,绘画中的服装对图中人物形象的塑造,以及由此形成的勃艮第宫廷独特的服饰文化特征和宫廷文化特点。《让·沃奎林向菲利普三世献书》不但较为全面地反映出15世纪上半叶勃艮第宫廷的服饰时尚,而且兼具复杂的叙事性。采用历史学和比较学的研究方法,将图像中的服装与社会生活、染织技术、宫廷文化等关联起来,剖析服装与历史生活密切相连的复杂结构。以菲利普三世为代表的勃艮第贵族强烈的个人服饰特征,结合骑士精神和壮丽恢宏的宫廷氛围,形成了勃艮第宫廷独特的宫廷文化,塑造了欧洲顶级宫廷的贵族形象。

The work aims to analyze how clothing affects characters in painting and the unique clothing style as well as culture characteristics at the court of Philip the Good,Duke of Burgundy in the 15th century,through careful study of the painting Jean Wauquelin Presenting His‘Chroniques de Hainaut’to Philip the Good.The painting itself not only reflects the fashion phenomena of Burgundian court in the first half of 15th century,but also belongs to the complex narrative work.With historical and comparative approaches,we analyze the complex structure of clothing and historical life by discovering connections between the clothing in painting and social life perspectives,dyeing and weaving technology,royal court culture,etc.The striking characteristics of personal clothing of the Burgundian peerages,represented by Philip the Good,together with chivalric code and splendorous court of Burgundy,formed the unique Burgundian court culture and shaped the noble image in the grand European royal court.