鲁本斯《穿朝鲜服饰的男子》新探

A New Exploration of Man in North Korean Costume Drawn by Rubens

在《穿朝鲜服饰的男子》画中人物身份的相关研究中,大多数观点从欧洲与朝鲜或明朝的交流这一角度将其视为“朝鲜人”或“中国商人”,并指出画中服饰包含了“朝鲜”和“明朝”两种元素,但实际上画中服饰的这种复杂性是源于朝鲜与明朝的朝贡关系。通过梳理两国的服饰交流史料,将画中人物所穿着的头冠、褡护、贴里等与朝鲜、明朝的服饰作详细对比可以发现这些服饰具有相似性,因此推断画中的服饰为朝鲜与明朝交流的混合产物,所以应将画中人物视为身份模糊的“亚洲人”。

With regard to the identity of the figure in Man in North Korean Costume,it has been held by the many that the man is a Korean or Chinese businessman from the perspective of the communication between Europe and North Korea or China in the Ming Dynasty(1368-1644)and that the costume in the painting contains two elements,North Korean and Ming Dynasty.However,in fact,the complexity of the costume originated from the paying-tribute between North Korea and China in the Ming Dynasty.Through analyzing the historical records of the costume of the two countries and comparing the crowns,guards,and underwear worn by the figure with the costume of North Korean and the Ming Dynasty,it can be found that these costumes are with similarity.Therefore,it can concluded that the costume in the painting is a mixed product of the exchanges between North Korea and China in the Ming Dynasty.Thus,the character in the painting should be an“Asian”with ambiguous identity.