宋代冠礼服饰演变的再探析

A Further Research of the Evolution of Capping Ceremony Costumes in Song Dynasty

[研究意义]文章对传统成人礼服饰文化的继承和发展起到借鉴和启示意义。[研究方法]以考古学、图像学、文献研究等研究方法对两宋时期的冠礼服制及服饰文化进行探究。[研究结果与结论]研究认为,宋代冠礼的传播与实现主要有三个必要因素:文教政策催动下产生的理学兴起和百姓文化教育水平的提高;礼法合流的必然趋势;经济政治的空前繁荣。这些因素共同作用促进了宋代礼制更趋广泛的影响。宋代冠礼服饰经过变化发展,折射出了两大现象,即冠礼服饰的庶民化倾向和逐步融入家居日常生活。它们表征了儒家的日常衣冠体系,具有的"变古适今"的时代特色且对后世冠礼服饰产生了深远意义。

The resear ch content of this paper has a reference and enlightenment significance for the inheritance and development of traditional capping ceremony clothing culture.This paper explores the clothing system and clothing culture in Song Dynasty by means of archaeology, iconology and literature research.The research shows that there are three essential factors in the dissemination and realization of the capping ceremony in Song Dynasty: The rise of Neo-Confucianism and the improvement of people’s educational level under the promoting of cultural and educational policies;the inevitable trend of the combination of etiquette and law;and the unprecedented prosperity of economy and politics. These factors promoted the more extensive influence of the ritual system in Song Dynasty. The change and development of the Song Dynasty’s capping ceremony costumes reflected two major phenomena, that is, the plebeian tendency of capping ceremony costumes and their gradual integration into daily life. They represent the daily clothing system of Confucianism, and have the characteristics of "changing the ancient to adapt to the present", which has a profound significance for later capping ceremony clothing.