宋代鹿胎冠考析

An Analysis of Deer Fetus Crown in Song Dynasty

[研究意义]冠饰作为服饰的组成部分,是一面映照时代的镜子,通过研究历代冠饰,我们可以了解不同历史时期的社会风貌及时代特点。宋代女性日常冠饰造型及材质多种多样、名目纷杂,鹿胎冠在文献史料中频频提及,但目前学界尚未有对此冠饰清晰地考证与分析,通过对鹿胎冠的考析,对深化宋代服饰史研究不无裨益。[研究方法和内容]文章结合文献与图像材料,选取鹿胎冠作为个案分析,就冠饰定义、材质、式样及流行时间等方面进行深入探讨。厘清鹿胎与鹿胎纹,进一步探究鹿胎冠背后隐含的道教意象与内涵,尽可能还原时人生活、心理、行为等方面的本来面貌。最后,串联不同时段的宋朝禁令推断鹿胎冠作为典型女性冠饰贯穿整个宋代。

As an integral part of clothing,crown ornaments are a mirror that reflects the times.By studying crown ornaments of the past dynasties,we can understand the social styles and characteristics of different historical periods.In the Song Dynasty,women’s daily crowns had various shapes and materials,and their names were varied.Deer fetus crowns are frequently mentioned in literature and historical materials.However,at present,there is no clear textual research and analysis on this crown ornaments in the academic world.Through the analysis of deer fetus crowns,It is also beneficial to deepen the study of the costume history of the Song Dynasty.This article combines literature and image materials,selects the deer fetus crown as a case analysis,and conducts an in-depth discussion on the definition,material,style and popularity time of crown decoration.This article clarifies the deer fetus and the deer fetus patterns,further explores the Taoist image and connotation behind the deer fetus crown,and tries to restore the original appearance of human life,psychology,behavior and so on.Finally,the ban of the Song dynasty cascading at different times infers that the deer fetus crown as a typical feminine crown throughout the Song Dynasty.