传统与现代之间:清末民初日本人游记中的巴蜀饮食生活

Between tradition and modernity:Bashu dietary life in Japanese Travel notes in late Qing Dynasty and Early Republic of China

清末民初,巴蜀地区饮食生活介于传统与现代、守旧与革新之间,具有鲜明的时代特征。以日本教习旅蜀游记为考察对象,能够窥见巴蜀饮食生活转型期间的诸多面貌。这些游记对当地民众传统落后的饮食卫生习惯、日趋兴盛的巴蜀餐饮市场以及中西方餐饮礼俗交流的记载,无不昭示近代巴蜀饮食生活处于传统与现代之间的历史情境。

At the end of Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China,the dietary life in Bashu region was between tradition and modernity,conservative and innovative,with distinct characteristics of the times.Taking the Japanese travel record as the object of the study,one could glimpse the many faces of Ba Shu’s dietary life during the transition period.The records of the traditional and backward food and hygiene habits of the local people,the flourishing Bashu catering market,and the exchanges of Chinese and western catering etiquette and customs all showed that the modern Bashu food and life are in a historical situation between tradition and modernity.