浅谈女装特体的版型调整——以挺胸体和驼背体为例

Discussion on the Adjustment of the Special Body Type of Women's Dress Pattern--Tall Chest and Hunchback

这篇文章详细阐述了特殊体型中的挺胸体和驼背体的体态变化特征,利用胸省和肩省与人体的轴原理,在标准原型中做了相应的平衡补正处理,更加符合特殊体型的身体形态,进一步完善了特殊体型前后腰节差,达到对因体型问题造成的衣身不平衡的相应补正。通过这些对体型变化的分析和具体调整方案,有助于提高结构制版师对衣身平衡的理解,提高制版师的专业技能和提高制版效率,从而推动我国服装业高级定制人才的培养,提升制版师的国际竞争力。

This paper elaborates on the adjustments to standard patterns which are necessary to accommodate special body types,in particular adjustments to account for a pronounced chest or a round shoulder.Using the axis principle for chest and shoulder-deviations from a standard body-type,the corresponding balance and correcting treatment is carried out in the standard pattern.This achieves a pattern which is more in line with the individual body shape and achieves clothing which is adjusted to the special body shape.The methods for analysis and the specific adjustment schemes presented are helpful to improve the understanding of the balance of the body and clothing.They will also improve the professional skills and the efficiency of pattern makers,and will thereby help to promote advanced advanced pattern-making skills for China’s fashion industry and improve pattern--maker international competitiveness.