时尚叙事的被动与主动——论流行色在丝绸设计中的历史情境、叙事主体及模式(1960-1985)

Passive and Active in Fashion Narrative——The historical situation,narrative subject and mode of popular color in silk design(1960-1985)

以历史文献为依据,以叙事学为视域,分析和综述了20世纪60~80年代流行色在中国丝绸设计领域的发展历程和历史情境以及参与的主体和叙事模式。中国丝绸设计界从对国际流行色感知与关注,逐渐发展到自发、自觉的尝试与探索,直至以多元的叙事主体与叙事模式积极参与到国际流行色的叙事体系与进程之中,此过程既是对流行色的认知、探索,也是色彩观念的不断转换。不同叙事主体对流行色和丝绸设计认知、观点、设计实践的多元叙述,对中国流行色的发展起都到了重要的推动作用。

Based on historical documents and narratology as the field of vision,this thesis analyzes and summarizes the development process of popular colors in the field of Chinese silk design in the 1960 s and 1980 s,as well as the historical context,participating subjects and narrative mode.The Chinese silk design industry has gradually developed from the perception and attention to international fashion colors to spontaneous and conscious attempts and explorations,until it actively participates in the narrative system and process of international fashion colors with multiple narrative subjects and narrative models.This process is both The cognition and exploration of popular colors is also the constant conversion of color concepts.The diverse narratives of different narrative subjects’cognition,viewpoints,and design practices of fashion colors and silk design have played an important role in promoting the development of Chinese fashion colors.