森口邦彦友禅和服纹样构成研究

Research on the Construction of Yuzen Dyeing Kimono Pattern Designed by Kunihiko Moriguchi

日本近代友禅染在继承江户时代文化精华的基础上,不断探索能够体现现代精神又不乏本土文化理想的工艺技法与艺术形式。友禅和服创作者森口邦彦为现代友禅染的革新贡献了一份新的力量。他所设计的友禅和服纹样立足传统友禅染工艺,以简单的几何造形要素创造出外在简洁精炼而内在意蕴丰富的作品。在其设计的和服纹样中,通过运用几何、数理的比例关系,以及视幻图形的创作技巧,构成具有反复性、层次性的纹样造形,"蒔糊"工艺的加入更增加了纹样构成的深度与立体感,使纹样造形展现出或外显或含蓄的律动感,以及丰富而有力的结构,既契合现代生活的时代精神,又给人一种静雅美的享受。

Based on the cultural essence in Edo period,yuzen dyeing,a Japanese traditional dyeing processes in modern times,has always been exploring a kind of craft technique and art form,which reflects not only modern spirits but also the local cultural ideal.Kunihiko Moriguchi,as the creator of Yuzen dyeing kimono,is contributing a new force to the reform of modern yuzen dyeing.The pattern of Yuzen dyeing kimono designed by him is on the basis of traditional Yuzen dyeing craft,which creates many works with simple and concise appearance and rich connotation.In his kimono pattern,he uses the proportional relationship between geometry and mathematics as well as the creating skills in optical illusions graphics to make the patterns with repeatability and hierarchy.Makinori craft adds to the depth of the pattern construction,which makes kimono patterns show explicit or implicit sense of rhythm,and rich and powerful structures.It not only fits the spirit of the times of modern life,but also gives people a kind of enjoyment with quiet and elegant beauty.