从阿斯克特社交看晨礼服的三种范式

THREE PARADIGMS OF MORNING DRESS FROM ROYAL ASCOT SOCIAL ACTIVITIES

基于国际着装规则知识系统,根据阿斯克特社交案例研究晨礼服的三种经典范式应用。整理相关的重要服装历史文献和采集相应的着装案例信息,采用案例与文献结合二重考证与比较研究的方法。晨礼服是阿斯克特社交的门坎,根据不同的社交氛围,具有标准版、阿斯克特版和升级版三种不同的范式。在当今国际着装规则中,晨礼服作为日间第一礼服拥有严格的构成形式,表现出礼服的级别性、稳定性、秩序性和传承性。晨礼服经典的构成形式和演化轨迹是忠实于功能性的实用主义,其因功能而走向社交舞台中央,也必将因失去功能而从社交中谢幕走入历史,充分反映出国际着装规制和绅士着装文化中,服装功能也决定了晨礼服的归宿。

Based on the knowledge system of The Dress Code,this paper studies three classic paradigm applications of morning dress according to Royal Ascot social activities.Through the research of important clothing historical documents and the collection of dress case information to study the morning dress.The method of double textual research and comparative study was adopted by combining cases with literature.Morning dress is the threshold for Royal Ascot social activities.According to different social atmospheres,there are three different paradigms of standard edition,ascot edition and upgraded edition.In today's the dress code,the morning dress,as formal day dress,has a strict composition form,showing the grade,stability,order and inheritance of the dress.The form and evolution of the morning dress are pragmatism determined by the function of the dress.Therefore,morning dress are born because of functions,and also pass into history because of losing functions.It fully reflects that dress function determines the destination of morning dress in The Dress Code and gentleman's dress culture.