清代挽袖的发展及其艺术特征辨析

Analysis on development and artistic features of the upturned sleeves in the Qing dynasty

挽袖是清代服饰中特有的袖口设计,具有装饰与功能的双重价值,在女服中使用甚多,是清代袖饰设计中的一朵奇葩。文章通过文献研读法、图像分析法,对清代挽袖的发展过程和艺术特征进行研究,并厘清其兴起与衰亡的原因,有利于更全面地呈现挽袖的历史价值。分析表明:挽袖是清中后期满汉女服互仿与缘饰艺术发展背景下的产物,常与镶、滚技艺结合使用,其制作工艺的精细程度能反映出穿着之人的社会地位,然而随着清代的灭亡与民国女性平权意识的提升,挽袖逐渐沦为用来收藏的画幅。

The upturned sleeves are a special design of cuff in the Qing dynasty,which have double value of decoration and function.It was widely used in women’s clothing as a kind of marvelous decoration in the Qing dynasty.By using the methods of literature research and image analysis,the authors studied the development and artistic features of the upturned sleeves in the Qing dynasty,and clarify the reasons for its rise and decline so as to overall present the historical value of upturned sleeves.The analysis shows that the upturned sleeves is a product of the mutual imitation of Manchu and Han women’s clothing and the development of edge decoration art in the middle and later period of the Qing dynasty.Upturned sleeves were often combined with inlaying and rolling techniques,and the fineness degree of the craftsmanship could reflect social status.However,with the demise of the Qing dynasty and the promotion of female equality consciousness in the Republic of China,upturned sleeves gradually became pictures for collection.