化妆品植物原料(Ⅰ)——在防晒化妆品中的研究与开发

Botanical cosmetic ingredients(Ⅰ)Research and development in sunscreen cosmetics

过度暴露在紫外辐射下会造成肤色加深、晒伤和光老化,增加患皮肤癌的风险等危害。防晒霜的使用对于减少这种伤害非常有用。而有机防晒剂容易引发皮肤过敏,无机防晒剂易造成使用肤感不佳和吸入性危害。因此,更安全的具有光防护效果的植物提取物正在被广泛地探索。文章介绍了紫外辐射引起的皮肤晒伤和光老化,以及抵御紫外辐射对皮肤伤害的植物提取物。这些植物提取物的有效成分为含有苯环或共轭结构的化合物,如黄酮、苯丙素、多酚和类胡萝卜素。文章对它们进行详细的阐述,希望能为天然防晒化妆品的发展做出贡献。

Excessive exposure to the ultraviolet radiation can cause dark skin color,sunburn and light aging,and can increase the risk of skin cancer.The use of sunscreen cosmetics can be very useful in reducing such injury.However,organic sunscreen agents tend to be allergenic,while inorganic sunscreen agents make people feel bad and have inhalation hazard.Therefore,plant extracts with sunscreening effect are being widely explored.The main mechanism of UV damage to the skin are sunburn and photoaging.The plant extracts that can be used in sunscreen cosmetics have been introduced.The effective components in plant extracts include flavonoids,phenylpropanoids,polyphenols and carotenoids which contain the benzene ring or conjugated structure.The article elaborates on them in detail,hoping to contribute to the development of natural sunscreen cosmetics.