东京奥运背景下攀岩全能项目非衡特征及其对我国的启示

Unbalanced characteristics of combined climbing and the implications for China under the background of Tokyo Olympics

通过对攀岩世界锦标赛、世界杯等重大比赛全能成绩进行分析并梳理相关文献,剖析攀岩全能项目的内部特征及相关原因,为我国备战东京奥运会和促进攀岩项目发展提供参考。结果表明:(1)攀岩全能项目的世界竞技格局、单项成绩发展态势及单项成绩结构具有非衡特征;(2)攀岩运动起源及发展、竞赛规则、单项力量素质特点等是形成攀岩全能项目非衡特征的主要原因;(3)近年来我国攀岩总体竞技实力稳步提升,但全能项目实力与世界顶级水平相比仍有诸多亟需提高之处。建议宏观策略上应努力打破原有竞技格局,壮大攀岩项目发展根基;训练策略上,一方面重视攀石和难度项目的发展,另一方面巩固速度项目优势,实现攀石项目的进一步突破。

Analyzing the internal characteristics of combined climbing and related reasons are of great significance for China to prepare for the Tokyo Olympics and to promote competitive strength.By screening relevant literature and analyzing competition performances of Climbing World Championship and World Cup,the results show that:(1)the world competitive pattern,the development trend and the structure of individual performance for combined climbing event show unbalanced characteristics;(2)the origin and development of rock climbing,competition rules,and individual strength characteristics are the main reasons to form the unbalanced characteristics of combined climbing event;(3)the overall competitive strength of China’sport climbing has been steadily improved in recent years,but there are still many aspects need to be boosted comparing with the world top level.Suggestions are as follows:on the macro strategy,efforts should be made to break the present competitive condition and strengthen the foundation of sport climbing development.On the training strategy,we should on the one hand attach importance to comprehensive development which is based on improving lead and boulder strength,and on the other hand realize the further breakthrough of boulder while consolidating the advantages of speed climbing.