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达斡尔族清代传世荷包惯用色探析

A Study on the Traditional Color of Daur Purse in Qing Dynasty
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摘要 [研究意义]达斡尔族传统荷包是达斡尔族传统服饰文化的重要组成部分,文章主要研究传统荷包的色彩表现,并总结出达斡尔族传统荷包的用色规律和象征意义。[研究方法与结论]文章从实物分析入手,系统分析了达斡尔传统荷包的背景色彩、主题色彩以及边饰色彩,其中背景色彩整理出21种惯用色,主题色彩整理出32种惯用色,通过比较得出两者的惯用色具有重叠性,并总结出惯用色中各色系的使用频率;边饰色彩在整理和分析中发现,其色彩基本和背景色彩与主题色彩一致或相近,比较注重色彩的呼应性。在此基础上,进一步确定了荷包的色彩定性和象征意义,总结出清代达斡尔族传统荷包具有一定的典型性、代表性和通用性,其研究价值有利于达斡尔族族传统荷包的传承与发展,为达斡尔传统荷包色彩复原作为数据参考。 The traditional pouch is an important part of the Daur costume culture.This paper mainly studied the color expression of the tradition pouch and summarized the color rules and its symbolic meaning.Starting from object analysis,the background color,theme color and edge color of Daur pouch were analyzed systematically.21 kinds of background colors and 32 kinds of theme colors were sorted out respectively.Through comparison,the overlap of the two traditional colors was obtained and the usage frequency of each color system was summarized.It is found that the edge color is similar with the background color and theme color paying more attention to the matching of colors.On this basis,the color qualitative and symbolic meaning of the pouch were further determined.It is concluded that the traditional Daur pouch in Qing Dynasty was representative and universal to a certain extent.The research is conducive to the inheritance and development of the traditional Daur pouch,and can serves as a reference for Daur traditional pouch color restoration.
作者 赵志军 袁倩宇 徐菲 ZHAO Zhijun;YUAN Qianyu;XU Fei(College of And Art&Design Heilongjiang,Qiqihar University,Qiqihaer 161006 China)
出处 《服饰导刊》 2020年第6期45-50,共6页 Fashion Guide
基金 齐齐哈尔市哲学社会科学规划课程(QSX2018-20XG) 黑龙江省艺术科学规划共建项目(2019D029) 齐齐哈尔大学教育科学研究项目(YB201942)。
关键词 达斡尔族 荷包 惯用色彩 象征 Daur nationality pouch preferred color symbolize
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