凝视与塑造:白居易服饰书写中的自我形象透视

Gaze and Molding:A Perspective into Self-Image in Bai Juyi’s Costume Writing

衣冠服饰作为社会文化的重要组成部分,反映着时代的审美心态和思想潮流,个体对于自身服饰的书写更展现着作者对自我形象有意识地凝视、选择和塑造。文章围绕白居易对自身服饰书写的诗歌作品,从社会生活、文化生活、世俗生活三个维度总结得出白居易"自相矛盾的官服形象""优孟衣冠的野服形象"和"放诞自适的常服形象"。白居易用三种形象的塑造对自身所经历的"仕与老的冲突""仕与隐的冲突""兼济与独善的冲突"作出回应的同时,自我认知也在由理想向现实折衷,这是受其"中人"的自我定位与"中隐"的政治选择影响的结果。

As an important part of social culture,clothing reflects the aesthetic conception and ideological trend of the times.Simultaneously,one’s writing of his own clothing reveals his conscious gaze,choice and shaping of his self-image.Focusing on Bai Juyi’s poems that write his own clothing,this paper summarizes his paradox image of official clothing,his disguised image of civilian clothing and his reckless image of casual clothing from the dimensions of social life,cultural life and secular life.For one thing,Bai Juyi,by means of these three self-images,responds to his experiences of the conflicts between"the official and the old","the official and the hermit"and"the universal responsibility and the personal integrity".For another,his self-cognition also undergoes a compromise from the ideal to the reality,which results from his self-positioning as’a mediocre person"and his political choice of"a middling hermit".