苏木与黄檗对柞蚕丝面料套染的橙色调颜色特征值

Over dyeing of lignum sappan and phellodendron amurense of tussah silk fabric on color characteristic value of orange tone

为了研究中国传统服饰色彩之橙色调的显色机制,选用染材苏木和黄檗,采用水煎法萃取染液,通过套染工艺进行直接染、前媒染、同媒染及后媒染工艺对柞蚕丝面料进行染色,并对其染色结果进行探讨。结果显示:苏木和黄檗进行套染,使用直接染所染制的橙色调纯度较低,显色范围有限,应用价值较小;前媒染和同媒染可以染制较为丰富的橙色调,应用价值较大;后媒染所染制的橙色调,显色范围较为狭窄,应用价值较小。从染制橙色调的显色效果及应用价值来看,其优劣依次为同媒染>前媒染>后媒染>直接染。媒染工艺染制橙色调的柞蚕丝面料试样耐水洗色牢度和耐摩擦色牢度均达到3级以上,达到国家对服装服用色牢度的要求。

The dyeing materials of lignum sappan and phellodendron amurense were selected,and the dyeing solution was extracted by water decocting method in this study,and direct dyeing,pre-mordanting dyeing,meta-mordanting dyeing and post-mordanting dyeing were carried out through the over dyeing process,and the dyeing results were discussed in order to study the color development mechanism of orange tone in Chinese traditional clothing.The results show that direct dyeing lead to a limited color developing range through the over dyeing process,which has less application value.The pre-mordanting dyeing and the meta-mordanting dyeing could get rich orange tones,which have rich application value.The post-mordanting dyeing lead to a narrow color developing range,which has less application value.From the color development effect and application value of orange tone dyeing,the order of its advantages and disadvantages is meta-mordanting dyeing>pre-mordanting dyeing>post-mordanting dyeing>direct dyeing.The washing fastness and rubbing fastness of dyed tussah silk fabric with orange tone could reach grade 3,which meets the national requirements for color fastness of clothing.