东周时期逾礼服装现象的辨析

Analysis of the Clothing Phenomenon of Breaking the Dressing Etiquettes in the Eastern Zhou Dynasty

[研究意义]逾礼的服装现象可追溯到东周时期,对它进行研究可以更好地了解其社会风情的变迁以及章服制度的松弛。[研究方法]文章通过文献分析法对东周时期逾礼的服装现象进行梳理,[研究结果与结论]研究认为:①东周时期逾礼的服装现象主要体现在僭越服制等级、引进胡服和男女倒置三方面;②其背后隐藏着在乱世下寻求身份认同、求强图存的目的和开放文化氛围下的跨性别意识;③逾礼的服装现象发展到汉代由于政治需要被命名为“服妖”。

The clothing phenomenon of breaking the dressing etiquettes can be traced back to the Eastern Zhou Dynasty.The research on it can help us better understand the changes of social customs and the relaxation of the system of official dress code.Through literature analysis,this paper sorts out the clothing phenomenon of breaking the dressing etiquettes in the Eastern Zhou Dynasty.The results show that:①The clothing phenomenon of breaking the dressing etiquettes in the Eastern Zhou Dynasty is mainly reflected in the following three aspects:transgression of the clothing system,the lead into alien-style clothing and the Cross-Dressing;②The purpose of seeking identity,strength and survival and pursuing personality in the troubled times;③This phenomenon of breaking the dressing etiquettes was named"FuYao"(Clothing Evils)in the Han Dynasty due to politics Governance needs.