《工艺,工业和日常生活:盎格鲁-斯堪的纳维亚和中世纪约克郡的皮革与制皮》中的纺织服饰编译(二)

Compilation of Textile and Clothing in Craft,Industry and Everyday Life:Leather and Leather Working in Anglo-Scandinavia and Medieval York(Ⅱ)

[研究方法]文章选取《工艺,工业和日常生活:盎格鲁-斯堪的纳维亚和中世纪约克郡的皮革与制皮》中的一篇关于皮革制品上缝纫介质的考古报告,[研究结果与结论]通过翻译该考古报告发现:考古专家对盎格鲁-斯堪的纳维亚和中世纪约克郡时期皮革缝纫介质的材质持有不同的研究观点;动物纤维和亚麻线作为缝纫介质的使用,存在相当长的重叠时期;但是,在中世纪时期亚麻纤维的使用变得越来越普遍,到14世纪末亚麻线已成为缝制鞋子的标准材料。文章根据报告中的记录,整理了此时期皮革缝纫线的材质,缝纫线加捻方向和结构,以及鞋子所使用的部位等。通过注释,详细介绍了该报告中考古挖掘点的位置,皮革缝纫的针法,以及“Z”“S”向加捻的工艺技术等。为更好的研究中世纪皮革制鞋与皮革缝纫相关技术提供借鉴。

This article selects an archaeological report on sewing media on leather products from Craft,Industry and Everyday Life:Leather and Leather Working in Anglo-Scandinavia and Medieval York.Through translation of the relevant contents of the archaeological report about the stitches on leather products,it is found that archaeologists hold different views on the materials of sewing media in leather products of Anglo Scandinavia and Yorkshire in the middle ages.There is a long overlapping period between animal fiber and flax thread as sewing medium;However,flax fiber became more and more popular in the middle ages.By the end of the 14th century,flax thread had become the standard material for shoes.According to the records in the report,the material of leather sewing thread,twisting direction and structure of sewing thread,and the parts used in shoes are sorted out.The location of archaeological excavation,the sewing method of leather,and the twisting technology of"Z"and"S"in the report are introduced in detail.It provides a reference for the research of leather shoe making and leather sewing technology in the middle ages.