中华服饰文化研究述评及其新时代价值

Review of the Study of Chinese Costume Culture and Its Value in the New Era

1949年以来,学界有关中华服饰文化遗产、知识谱系及文明符号等的研究成果大量产出。从社会历史、民族特色、民间民俗、文化遗产以及时尚创新等视角,梳理了近年来国内外有关中华服饰研究的相关成果;并对已有研究进行评述,指出中华服饰中的最新出土实物、"服饰民族学"范畴、艺术人类学方法、"非遗"品牌、"中国时尚"理论等的相关研究依然欠缺。基于现有研究成果,立足新时代背景,将中华服饰研究的新时代价值凝练为4个方面:弘扬中华优秀传统文化,彰显国家形象的高度、悠久历史的深度;打造服饰时尚名片,彰显创新设计的力度、中国风格的亮度;实现人文精神传承,彰显文明互鉴的广度、价值耦合的厚度;建构中华特色"衣文明",彰显文化自信的气度,时尚未来的宽度。

Since 1949,a large number of research results have been produced on the cultural heritage,knowledge pedigree and civilization symbols of Chinese costume.From the mainstream perspective of social history,national characteristics,folk customs,cultural heritage and fashion innovation,this paper comprehensively combs all kinds of achievements of Chinese costume research at home and abroad in recent years.It also comments on the existing research and points out that there is still a long way to go for the research of the latest objects unearthed,the category of"costume ethnology",the method of art anthropology,"intangible cultural heritage"brand,"Chinese fashion"theory and so on.Based on the existingresearch and the background of the new era,the contemporary value of Chinese costume research in the new era is refined as the following four aspects:carrying forward the excellent traditional culture,highlighting the height of national image and the depth of long history;creating clothing fashion cards,highlighting the strength of innovative design and the brightness of Chinese style;realizing the inheritance of humanistic spirit,highlighting the breadth of civilization mutual learning and the thickness of value coupling;building"clothing civilization"with Chinese characteristics for highlighting the bearing of cultural confidence and the width of fashion futwre.