19世纪末法国时尚体系与杜塞高级时装屋

French Fashion System in the Late 19th Century and Doucet Haute Couture House

19世纪末以来,由宫廷文化推动发展的法国时尚逐渐占据西方时尚的绝对话语权。梳理19世纪以来法国时尚产业的发展轨迹,归纳与之相应的时代精神、生活方式、消费观念、艺术思潮。总结得出,19世纪末的法国时尚历经几个世纪的沉淀后,随着高级时装产业的萌蘖,催生出以"宫廷文化与高级定制"为特色的区域时尚文化,并建构了与之配伍的法国时尚体系,其中包含法国政府、行业协会、高级时装屋、传播媒体与教育机构等构成要素。通过对法国时尚体系的解读,剖析法国时尚产业发展的驱动力与核心要素,研究杜塞高级时装屋的设计运营方式,以点带面解析以杜塞高级时装屋为早期样本的法国高级时装产业。

Since the late 19 th century,the French fashion which was promoted by the palace culture had been occupying the absolute discourse power of western fashion.The development track of French fashion industry since the 19 th century was combed,and the time spirit,life style,consumption concept,artistic trend of thought were summarized.It was concluded that in the late 19 th century,after several centuries of precipitation of French fashion,with the sprouting of haute fashion industry,the regional fashion culture characterized by"court culture and haute couture"came into being,and a compatible French fashion system was constructed,including the French government,trade associations,haute couture house,media and educational institutions.With the interpretation of French fashion system,this paper analyzed the driving force and core elements of French fashion industry development,studied the design and operation mode of Doucet Haute Couture House,and analyzed the French haute couture industry with Doucet Haute Couture House as the early sample from point to surface.